The online version of The Times recently published an article which takes a look at the progress of winemakers under QDO Rioja and their use of the Graciano grape variety over the past 30 years. This strain is regarded as one of the most problematic when it comes to making wine, due to its fragility, its small yield and its rough tannins; however, with patience and improvements in Riojan vinification techniques, winemakers, according to the UK daily, are now able to exploit the grape’s possibilities in order to make wines of exceptional quality.

The article, written by Bob Tyrer and headed `On the bottle: graciano´, takes a brief look at Rioja’s history and rise to fame, from the surprise produced by its smooth vanilla flavour from long ageing in American oak – typical of the first Riojan wines released on the international market – to the present, where a new generation of wine producers continue to surprise consumers thanks to their innovative ideas. A clear case being that of the Graciano grape, which requires extra special handling and is, for the UK journalist, the secret behind the Riojan wine revolution.

A happy encounter which, in Tyrer’s opinion, is present in the wines he recommends: ‘Pago Real 2006’, a coupage of Tempranillo and Garnacha (winner of a Bronze Medal in the 2009 edition of the Decanter World Wine Awards). ‘Remelluri Reserva 2004’ made from Tempranillo, Garnacha and Graciano, and ‘Viña Real Gran Reserva 1999’, with just 5 percent Graciano delights with its balanced and intense flavours.