Is the question the celebrated UK critic asks in her article published in the Californian daily. A fitting question, given that “the outer limits of the wine world continue to be extended”, and one which Robinson found herself repeating after the recent launch of DO Manchuela wines in London.
In her article, the author states that this appellation can be found on the north-eastern border of La Mancha, southeast of Madrid. Although the total area of vines planted in the region is not that much smaller than in Bordeaux, only about 10 percent are endorsed by the appellation. And right now only a handful of bodegas are trying “to put Manchuela on the map”. One of them is Finca Sandoval, the region’s most well-known bodega both at home and abroad, founded in 2001 by famous wine writer Víctor de la Serna.
And it was precisely this prestigious journalist who, at the DO Manchuela launch in London, stated that “Spain has three great native red varieties, Garnacha in the north, Monastrell (known internationally as Mourvedre) in the south and in the middle Bobal, which is not as refined as the other two but is much better than it's given credit for”. In fact, just as Robinson points out, de la Serna started making wines at Finca Sandoval with international varieties such as Syrah, and blends of Garnacha and Monastrell, in line with late-20th century fashion. But it was not long before he returned to using Bobal, making wines from 70-year-old vines.
Robinson explains that the Bobal variety makes “big, muscular but aromatic wines” with “mouth-filling fruit”. In DO Manchuela, only Bodegas Ponce uses this grape variety exclusively, while Altolandónonly uses international varieties. “Who is right?” the author asks. There are two important factors which influence the winemakers’ choice: local conditions and what is easiest to sell. According to Robinson, the current trend is to shy away from the better-known varieties and to favour more “exotic” varieties. Better still if they are native “heritage variety” grapes.
This ‘traditional variety rediscovery’ phenomenon is currently happening all around Europe, not just in Spain. This is what happened, for example, in the French region of Gascony and in several Italian regions. And, up to a certain point, in Australia, where more and more “alternative varieties” (minority strains, native grapes from other countries imported to the Australian continent) are being planted.
Jancis Robinson also gives a mention to Portugal, a country which boasts a wide range of native grape varieties, and which has kept itself relatively free from the trend to plant the so-called international varieties. Even Víctor de la Serna has planted Touriga Nacional vines, one of Portugal’s great native grapes, in his vineyards at Finca Sandoval, with which he makes one of his most exclusive wines, ‘Cuvée TNS’ (TN = Touriga Nacional; S = Syrah).
