The US journalist uses the long-standing debate (in his opinion somewhat obsessive and boring) of tradition vs. modernity in the wine world to showcase the virtues of three Spanish white varieties: Albariño, Godello and Verdejo.

McIntyre believes that, in the case of Spanish white wines, modernisation (not modernity) has saved tradition. New vinification technologies have now been added to traditional varieties, methods such as the strict temperature control of the fermentation process in stainless-steel vats. And this is the main reason why “Albariños, Godellos and Verdejos are increasingly popular today as alternatives to the ubiquitous Chardonnay”.

The author states that Albariños’ aromas have been compared to those of Riesling and Viognier, and quotes Aurelio Cabestrero (former sommelier at Taberna del Alabardero in Washington): ”In Albariños, you can find aromas of apricots, white flowers, sea salt, oyster shells, tropical fruits and minerals; They pair well with oysters, sushi, all kinds of seafood.”

The Godello grape, also from the northwest of Spain, is still not as famous as Albariño. McIntyre describes it as aromatic and mineral, with “impressive structure and finesse”. For Cabestrero, this variety’s most outstanding characteristics are “jasmine and honeysuckle, with more weight than a typical Albariño”.

The Washington Post critic also highlights wines made from Verdejo, the most important white grape from the Rueda region. For the writer, this “less aristocratic” grape is reminiscent of Sauvignon Blanc due to its grassiness and fresh herbal flavours. McIntyre states that most Spanish whites on the US market these days are made using modern organic methods, but that there are also more traditional wines to be found, especially those from Rioja.

To illustrate the contrast between tradition and modernity on the Spanish white wine scene, McIntyre recommends two labels: ‘Lagar de Cervera Albariño 2007’ (DO Rías Baixas) and ‘Medrano Irazu 2005’ (QDO Rioja). The first is fresh and vibrant, “an orchard in a glass”, with a long and complex finish. The second, a 100 percent Viura, is aged in oak over lees, whose aromas are more earthy and mineral than fruity.