However, the bodega’s crown jewel is ‘Hécula’, which was the Roman name for Yecla. This is a single-variety Monastrell, moreish and light on wood, aged over six months in order not to lose the grape’s fruitiness. In 2001 Robert Parker described this wine as “possibly the best value wine in the world,” backing his claim with 92 points in Wine Advocate. This endorsement boosted Bodegas Castaño’s performance abroad.

If ‘Hécula’ is Bodegas Castaño’s flagship label, ‘Casa Cisca’ is their soul. This is the family’s most personal wine, a powerful expression of their old, unwatered, low-yield Monastrell vines at the ‘Las Gruesas’ estate. It is concentrated and powerful, a sublimation of the variety’s virtues.

The Castaños’ enthusiastic and pioneering spirit inspired them to reach out into neighbouring regions. They backed Bodegas Sierra Salina and purchased the ‘Casa Mira’ estate. This terroir makes ‘Mira’, ‘Puerto Salinas’, ‘Moo’ and ‘1237’ under DO Alicante, to growing acclaim.

In Jumilla, the Castaños have another project underway: ‘Altos del Cuadrado’, with a new winery currently under construction.

Ramón Castaño Santa and his family’s drive seem boundless. Every year they add more wines and new projects. “Seen from another point of view they would only bring about more problems, more stress, more hard work. But to us, they are a labour of love because we approach them with enthusiasm, affection and joy. The fruits of all that are what we see today. The greatest joy in one’s life is to do what one enjoys doing and in that sense I can’t complain,” he rounds off.