Red varieties account for the lion’s share of planted vines. 60 percent are Monastrell, between 5 and 45 years old. Merlot, Garnacha Tintorera, Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah jointly account for a further 30 percent. Finally, white varieties Macabeo, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Airén stand for just under 10 percent.

“I like old stock. Though in theory some of our Monastrell are nearly 50 years old, in reality they are older because when I bought them they were already old, though we have no way of knowing how old. It wouldn’t be too adventurous to say some of them are over 70,” explains Ramón Castaño Santa, who is especially fond of keeping old vines and looking out for their health, to the benefit of his wines.

In this area the climate is continental, unlike in the rest of the province. Limited rainfall, with readings between 250 and 300 litres a year, usually comes in the form of torrential storms. Vineyards are exposed to 3,000 hours of sunlight a year, with temperatures ranging from a minimum -10 ºC in winter to 42ºC in summer. These conditions favour Monastrell’s ripening potential and phenolic concentration, allowing the variety to achieve its maximum expression.

Given the broad extension of their properties, Bodegas Castaño also offers a broad catalogue of wines. ‘Dominio Espinal’, is the most affordable range, though all the winery’s products reach the market at excellent value. They include whites, rosés and reds, some of which are aged. The three are “very natural Yecla wines,” according to Ramón Castaño Santa.

Their more classical line is ‘Pozuelo’, which includes both a crianza and reserva. Under the ‘Castaño’ brand, the family makes half a dozen single-variety wines: a Macabeo-Chardonnay white, a Monastrell rosé and four single-variety wines expressing the Monstrell, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah grown by Bodegas Castaño. This brand also covers a sweet wine made from selected over-ripe Monastrell grapes from old, strictly un-irrigated vines in the style of Port wine. Finally, ‘Colección’ is 80 percent Monastrell and 20 percent Cabernet, aged over four months.

“These wines are made out in the fields, on the vine. The grapes grow to suit each wine. These wines don’t require much ageing because they have an original beauty. They are like naturally attractive women who are not favoured by too much makeup”. For Ramón Castaño Santa each of these wines is a “personal and unique piece”.